Therapist explains how viral divorce graph is wrongly interpreted to claim women are bad at relationshipsDivorces are most common in same-sex female couples. This has led to many falsely claiming that women are the problem in relationships, explains Jeff. Published on: Mar 31
Tottenham are closing in on the appointment of Roberto de Zerbi as head coach. Should the former Brighton boss agree a deal - as is expected - he would have seven games to save the club from relegation to the Championship. That means in two months' time
VinFast is preparing to launch its first multi-purpose vehicle (MPV) in India by mid-April, marking its entry into the country’s growing electric vehicle segment. VinFast is preparing to launch its first multi-purpose vehicle (MPV) in India by mid-April
Employee shares how boss was laid off after 8 years at a company without warning: 'Companies look after themselves'Internet reacted after a man revealed his boss was abruptly fired despite years of service. Updated on: Mar 31, 2026 5:06 PM IST By Mahipal Singh Chouhan Share via Copy link A post on
India’s relationship with fragrance is ancient, intimate, and profoundly sophisticated. Long before perfume became a global industry, long before it was bottled, branded, advertised, and sold in department stores, fragrance in India was understood as a lived technology-deeply embedded in medicine
India will usher in a major tax reform from April 1, 2026, as the Income-tax Act, 2025, replaces the six-decade-old Income Tax Act, 1961. Know key features: New Income Tax Law From April 1: India will usher in a major tax reform tomorrow (April 1, 2026), as the Income-tax Act, 2025
Punjab & Sind Bank LBO Recruitment 2026: Apply for 1000 posts at punjabandsind.bank.in, direct link here Updated on: Mar 31, 2026 2:48 PM IST By HT Education Desk | Edited by Papri Chanda Prefer HTon Google Quick Read Share via Copy link Punjab and Sind Bank has invited applications or Local Bank
U.S. Second Lady Usha Vance said she considers herself a trusted adviser to her husband J D Vance, the U.S. Vice President, especially when he’s taking a position on an issue that is “important personally.” Ms. Usha, the first Indian American Second Lady, in an interview with NBC News
‘Saffron’ wave: What Kolkata’s biryani obsession says about economics and food politics
From the chaotic arteries of Shyambazar to the manicured lanes of Salt Lake, and even beyond, when walking down streets in Kolkata and its suburbs, the air smells different. The sharp, pungent notes of mustard oil, once the undisputed sovereign of Bengali air, is fast retreating, confined to kitchens of homes.
On the road, outside metro stations, near college gates, at bus stands, another scent dominates: the narcotic perfume of meetha attar, saffron, birista or onions fried crisp, ghee and meat.
Over the last decade, Kolkata has witnessed a culinary coup. Traditional pice hotels, with their clattering metal thalis and temperamental fish curries, have been displaced.
That world has been crowded out by something portable and predictable. The new king is a foil packet, sweating grease, containing a generous helping of yellow rice, a piece of meat and the true monarch of Kolkata’s version of biryani – the potato.
Kolkata’s biryani has always been worshipped by the food lovers of the city. But it has been a dish that the ordinary middle-class would savour on “special occasions”. The sudden “biryani-fication” of Kolkata is more than a change in taste preferences. On closer look, it offers a fascinating case study in economics, logistics and perhaps even the politics of identity.
In the last decade biryani has managed to upstage traditional go-to meals such as puri with chana daal – in Bengali, luchi/kochuri with cholar daal – or samosa with jalebi or the simple meal of rice, daal, vegetables, and fish curry. The wallet explains why. For commuters, students and gig workers, biryani is an efficient bundle: maximum calories and minimum decision-making in one transaction.
A “proper” Bengali meal outside the home often means several items – rice, dal, vegetables, fish, each pushing up the bill and the uncertainty of whether the meal will be satisfying.
The potato is central to that bargain. Stories about why the potato became a part of Kolkata’s biryani vary: some link it to the exile of the Nawab of Awadh, Wajid Ali Shah, in the city in the mid-19th century and a need (or desire) to adapt the dish. Others treat it as a later innovation that became tradition. Today, the potato does important economic work.
For vendors struggling with volatile meat prices, the potato helps keep portions looking generous without making the meal unaffordable. For the consumer, the giant, soft, saffron-soaked potato offers a psychological satisfaction that a small bowl of macher jhol, or Bengali fish curry, simply cannot match.
In a struggling economy, biryani is fiscal prudence disguised as indulgence.
The last decade has also coincided with the rise of the platform economy as food delivery apps have rapidly expanded. Here, biryani has an advantage over Bengali food, which is structurally hostile to the delivery rider’s backpack – fish curry spills, dal leaks, soggy luchis are a tragedy. Biryani, however, is dry, compact and virtually indestructible. A packet of biryani can survive a ride across 10 potholes and reach the customer looking exactly as it left the handi.
Biryani also supports the industrialisation of the kitchen. A pice hotel cook must fry fish to order. A Chinese wok chef must stir-fry every single plate of chowmein. But the biryani ustad cooks 50 kilos in a massive degh at 10am and the job is done. The rest of the day is just dispensing food.
In a high-volume, low-margin market, the batch cook model beats à la carte every time. No wonder biryani is the national delivery heavyweight: Swiggy’s “How India Swiggy’d” reports repeatedly place biryani at the top of India’s most ordered dishes.
But getting to the meat of the matter, is this surge purely economic? Unlikely. In India, everything is political, especially what one eats for lunch. As the national political discourse shifted post-2014, with aggressive vegetarianism and anti-beef narratives dominating North India, West Bengal found itself in a peculiar position: a non-vegetarian stronghold in a country increasingly defined by dietary puritanism. The rise of biryani is perhaps a form of “culinary federalism”.
Chicken or mutton biryani is a “safe meat” compromise. It satisfies the Bengali desire for rich, carnivorous, Mughlai excess while sidestepping the volatile politics of beef. It is a delicious act of resistance against culinary homogenisation. That matters when what one eats can slide from moralising to coercion.
When a Hindu family orders biryani during Durga Puja, or students share packets on a hostel floor, it is not necessarily automatically a manifesto. Most people are simply hungry. Still, everyday choices can carry meanings without being consciously political. Biryani is a subconscious celebration of the state’s syncretic, secular fabric where a Mughlai tradition has been seamlessly adopted as a Hindu festive staple.
There is a cynical side to this politics. In a state where large-scale industrial employment has stagnated, the mushrooming biryani stalls serve two functions. First, they are the new factories, absorbing thousands of semi-skilled migrants and minority laborers.
Second, cheap, rich food acts as a pacifier. As the Romans used to say, if you cannot give the youth jobs, give them bread and circuses. In Kolkata’s case, it is biryani and festivals. A population comatose on carbohydrates and dopamine is less likely to riot.
But biryani’s victory is a loss for food variety and nuanced flavours. The bitter notes of the vegetable dish shukto, the pungency of the Bengali mustard relish kasundi, and the thin, fiery gravies of the Bangal kitchen are being pushed to the margins, reserved for cooking at home on Sunday, or to be eaten in expensive heritage restaurants. The street increasingly belongs to the homogenous, saffron-yellow mass of rice, meat and potato.
Kolkata’s biryani fetish is also being popularised by the influx of food vloggers, whose interventions have also led to a democratisation seen in the rise of several cheap, roadside biriyani hotels like Bacchar Biriyani and “American dada”, challenging the monopoly of the traditional and elite biryani sellers like Rahmania, Aminia and Arsalan restaurants.
But the city’s culinary biodiversity is being traded in for a standardised, reliable, and addictive monoculture. None of this makes biryani the villain. It is a mirror, reflecting inflation, the compression of time, the rise of delivery platforms and the way identity politics seeps into ordinary appetite.
Biryani is now a masterpiece of supply-chain logistics, a symbol of inflation-adjusted economics and a subtle political manifesto. It has conquered the streets, food delivery apps and our arteries. Macher jhol will survive, but it has lost the war for the street.
Niladri Chatterjee is a historian and senior lecturer at Linnaeus University in Sweden.
Source: Scroll
Related Posts: Empty lanes vs long jams Connexin proteins rally arteries to nourish brain on demand Top vascular surgeon shares 3 habits that help clear blocked arteries and protect your heart Longevity doctor shares 4 steps to reverse plaque buildup in arteries Vascular surgeon warns leg pain and numbness can be a sign of blocked arteries Couple’s morning coffee turns chaotic as monkey raids Mussoorie hotel room Global international situation was becoming more ‘chaotic and intertwined’ UP Mass Wedding Turns Chaotic As Guests Rush To Grab Free Chips Packets Viral meme sums up chaotic start to 2026 as March begins Cricket league in Srinagar involving Gayle turns chaotic
Known for its glitzy stage costumes and sometimes outlandish performances, the Eurovision Song Contest is now launching its first ever Asia edition. Broadcasters from 10 countries in the region, including South Korea, Thailand and the Philippines, have confirmed that they will be taking part
1 days ago
In kitchens across India, spices are the backbone of every dish. But what if the real problem isn’t how you cook, but how you store them? Over time, even the most premium masalas can lose their punch if handled incorrectly. Heat, light, air, and moisture quietly strip away their essential oils
1 days ago
As per rules, with effect from April 1, for Aadhaar-based PAN applications applicants will be required to provide one additional valid proof of Date of Birth, apart from Aadhaar, as prescribed. New Delhi: New PAN/TAN application forms will be effective from tomorrow, 1 April 2026
1 days ago
PBKS vs GT LIVE Score, IPL 2026: Shreyas Iyer-led Punjab Kings will face Shubman Gill's Gujarat Titans in a high-stakes encounter of the Indian Premier League (IPL) 2026 at Maharaja Yadavindra Singh International Cricket Stadium in New Chandigarh. The toss will take place at 7 PM IST
1 days ago
Step inside this mountain-themed, wheelchair-friendly home in Karnal, Haryana, that blends design with accessibilityHere’s a sneak peek to one of the beautiful wheel-chair friendly homes in Karnal, Haryana that features rustic mountain vibes. Published on: Mar 31
1 days ago
Pakistan cricketer Fakhar Zaman faces a two-match ban from the Pakistan Super League. He was found guilty of ball tampering during a match. This incident follows other controversies in the league. Fast bowler Naseem Shah received a record fine for social media comments
1 days ago
Iran war can cut India GDP growth rate by 100 bps in FY27, EY saysEY now sees India GDP growth rate at ~6% and inflation rate at 150 bps higher that RBI's target of 4% as the impact of Iran war courses through the economy. Updated on: Mar 31
1 days ago
Case filed against Vijay, TVK party cadres for alleged violation of Model Code of Conduct regulationsTVK chief Vijay and his party cadres have been booked under various sections of Bharatiya Nyaya Sanhita 2023. Mar 31, 2026, 18:26:17 IST By Santanu Das Share via Copy link TVK chief
1 days ago
New Kia Seltos Safety Rating: The Kia Seltos has scored a full 5-star safety rating in Bharat NCAP crash tests. The SUV performed strongly in both adult and child protection. New Kia Seltos crash test results: The Kia Seltos has scored a full 5-star safety rating in Bharat NCAP crash tests
1 days ago
Gulf allies of the United States, led by Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, are urging President Donald Trump to continue prosecuting the war against Iran, arguing that Tehran hasn't been weakened enough by the monthlong U.S.-led bombing campaign, according to U.S.
1 days ago
The Calcutta High Court on Tuesday dismissed a public interest litigation against the Election Commission’s decision to transfer several officers in poll-bound West Bengal, saying that it found no evidence of mala fide intent in the orders, Live Law reported
1 days ago
The teaser of Kathanar offers a glimpse into a grand, visually spectacular pan-Indian film poised to set new benchmarks in global storytelling. The teaser of the much-anticipated pan-Indian film Kathanar has been officially released, offering audiences a first look at what is being described as one
1 days ago
India’s CCTV ban starts tomorrow: Will your home camera stop working?Chinese CCTV camera manufacturers will face increased scrutiny in India starting April 1. However, these changes will not impact the devices already in use. Updated on: Mar 31
1 days ago
It was pretty soon after James was born that I knew something wasn't right," says Laura. She and her partner, Beth, have two children - James, and their eldest Kate - both conceived through IVF treatment at a clinic in Turkish-occupied northern Cyprus
1 days ago
Chennai Super Kings (CSK) batting coach Michael Hussey admitted his side was outplayed by Rajasthan Royals (RR) in their Indian Premier League (IPL) 2026 opener on Monday (March 30, 2026) in Guwahati. He noted that the pitch, which had been under covers
1 days ago
Poonam Pandey’s latest post flaunting a baby bump has left fans confused, with many suspecting it could be another publicity stunt or April Fool’s prank. Mumbai: Actress Poonam Pandey has once again left the internet puzzled after announcing her pregnancy
1 days ago
Eutelsat, a key competitor to Elon Musk's Starlink, is in discussions with India's space agency, ISRO, for future satellite launches. This move aims to diversify its launch options beyond SpaceX and European Ariane rockets, following its merger with OneWeb and loss of access to Russian Soyuz
1 days ago
Obesity is a chronic disease that requires proper, long-term management. It is not just about excess weight, but also about its wide-ranging impact on overall health. If left unmanaged, obesity can lead to several serious complications such as diabetes, hypertension, heart disease, osteoarthritis
1 days ago
Satellite images are emerging, offering a view of the Iran war's damage. Ships are seen burning in an Iranian port. Military bases in the region show destroyed buildings. Information on the war's toll has been limited. High-resolution images from various firms are providing crucial details
1 days ago
Eight Indian seafarers who were detained in Iran in December have returned home after weeks of delay caused by the war in the Middle East. The men were part of an 18-member crew - 16 Indians and one each from Sri Lanka and Bangladesh - on a ship seized by Iranian authorities who alleged they were
1 days ago
Lahore Qalandars batter Fakhar Zaman has suffered a big blow as he has been suspended for two games of the Pakistan Super League PSL) 2026. Fakhar Zaman was found guilty of breaching Level 3 of the PSL's Code of Conduct, which pertains to tampering with the ball
1 days ago
Rohit Sharma’s funny MI ad shoot video goes viral after his 78 vs KKR. Watch what happened with the party popper. A light-hearted behind-the-scenes clip featuring Rohit Sharma has gone viral just days after Mumbai Indians’ thrilling IPL 2026 win over Kolkata Knight Riders. The video
1 days ago
The 2026-27 academic year is about to begin, and it brings good news for students: the April 2026 calendar is packed with holidays. This month includes major festivals like Good Friday, Ambedkar Jayanti, and Baisakhi, which are declared holidays for schools and colleges in various states
1 days ago
KSEAB Karnataka 1st PUC Result 2026: The Karnataka School Examination and Assessment Board has announced the Karnataka 1st PUC Result 2026 for students who appeared in the Class 11 annual examinations. The results are now available on the direct links at result.proed.in or karresults.nic.in
1 days ago
With the financial year 2025-26 drawing to a close, businesses and taxpayers need to complete a few critical compliance actions on the Goods and Services Tax Network (GSTN) portal today, March 31, 2026, to ensure a smooth transition into FY 2026-27
1 days ago
Virendra Sachdeva and Kamaljeet Sehrawat have strongly condemned the misinformation being spread by the Aam Aadmi Party misusing certain video journalists regarding the women’s Pink Card implemented in DTC buses. Delhi BJP President Virendra Sachdeva and General Secretary MP Kamaljeet Sehrawat
1 days ago
The Bharatiya Janata Party-led National Democratic Alliance on Tuesday promised two free liquefied petroleum gas cylinders per year for poor households as part of its manifesto for the Kerala Assembly election. BJP president Nitin Nabin said that if the alliance comes to power
1 days ago
