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Why Hair Oils, Serums And Shampoos Don’t Work For Hair Loss And What Actually Does

Why Hair Oils, Serums And Shampoos Don’t Work For Hair Loss And What Actually Does
Hair loss affects a significant portion of the population at some point in their lives, yet the gap between what people try and what actually works remains wide. Scalp oils, growth serums, and thickening shampoos dominate the consumer market. While they are not without merit, they are often misunderstood as treatments for hair loss when they are not designed to function as one.
According to Dr Debraj Shome, Co-Founder and Director, The Esthetic Clinics, “There is a common misconception that topical products alone can reverse hair loss, when in reality, they primarily work on the surface rather than at the root of the problem."
The Limits of Topical Haircare
Hair growth is governed by the follicle, which is embedded several millimetres below the scalp surface and regulated by hormones, growth factors, and cellular signalling. Most haircare products condition the scalp environment or improve the appearance of existing hair; they do not interact with follicular biology in any clinically significant way.
“Hair follicles lie beneath the surface, and unless a treatment can effectively reach and influence them, its impact on hair growth remains limited," explains Dr Shome.
Shampoos, in particular, have a clear limitation in terms of contact time. With just 60 to 90 seconds on the scalp before rinsing, there is little opportunity for meaningful absorption. Serums and oils, while better due to their leave-on nature, still face challenges.
“As beneficial as oils and serums may feel, without techniques like regular scalp massage to improve microcirculation and absorption, they largely remain superficial," says Dr Shome. “More importantly, they do not address the underlying cause of hair loss, whether hormonal, nutritional, or stress-related."
Consistency Over Variability
Among clinical treatments, platelet-rich plasma (PRP) therapy has gained attention, but it often delivers inconsistent results.
“PRP is derived from a patient’s own blood, which means the concentration of growth factors can vary significantly from person to person, and even between sessions," notes Dr Shome. “This variability makes it difficult to achieve predictable outcomes."
Growth factor-based treatments aim to overcome this challenge by offering a more standardised approach.
“These treatments deliver a precisely formulated cocktail of biomimetic peptides and growth factors directly to the scalp," he explains. “Because the composition is consistent, the results tend to be more predictable and reproducible, an important factor when managing progressive conditions like androgenetic alopecia or telogen effluvium."
The Right Starting Point
Ultimately, effective hair loss management begins with an accurate diagnosis.
“The most critical step is identifying the root cause," emphasises Dr Shome. “Whether it’s hormonal imbalance, nutritional deficiency, or stress, treatment must be tailored accordingly."
While products can play a supportive role, they are not a standalone solution. “Topical products can complement treatment, but they cannot replace medical intervention when it is required," he adds.
In the end, the shift lies in understanding that hair growth is not just a cosmetic concern, it is a biological process. And addressing it effectively requires moving beyond surface-level solutions to targeted, science-backed care.
Source: News18
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