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Prized on Bengal’s Pujo platters, the hilsa is now priced and powered by Gujarat

This monsoon season, Bharuch, Gujarat, has emerged as India's hilsa hub, yielding a record 4,000 tonnes, compensating for scarce imports from Bangladesh and diminished local catches in West Bengal. Kolkata serves as the primary distribution point for Bharuch hilsa, often mislabeled as Bengal's, before reaching other major Indian cities.
Kolkata: This year, that on Pujo platters may not have been caught in West Bengal or Bangladesh, but from the fishing grounds of Bharuch, Gujarat.
Bharuch has emerged as India's hub for cultivation of hilsa, a beloved delicacy in Bengal, this monsoon, having delivered around 4,000 record tonnes during July-August. Imports from traditional supplier Bangladesh, meanwhile, have been elusive so far this year, while fishing in West Bengal has more than halved from the year before, according to trade estimates.
Hilsa from Bharuch, otherwise known as 'Peanut City,' first lands in Kolkata before being shipped to other major consuming cities such as Mumbai, Delhi-NCR, Bengaluru and Chennai.
This variety of fish is most often wrongfully retailed as Bengal's hilsa - ₹1,200-1,400 per kg -and the smaller sized ones at ₹800-900."Mostly big-sized hilsa of 1-1.2 kg are coming from Bharuch. Smaller sized hilsa of 700-800 gm are also from there, but in less quantity," said Syed Anwar Maqsood, secretary of Howrah Wholesale Fish Market, the hub near Kolkata. "This time, around 4,000 tonnes of hilsa has arrived from Bharuch, which is the highest in the past many years."
The Bharuch hilsa is caught from the Narmada river after it migrates from the Arabian Sea.
Local hilsa supply has fallen drastically from 260,000 tonnes in 2020.
Traders say only small-sized fish from the Bay of Bengal are currently available in the market. Many said they had to turn to importing hilsa from Myanmar to meet strong demand, as West Bengal fishing dwindled. "But now we are seeing people are preferring hilsa from Bharuch, even though they do not know the sourcing point," said Tapan Karmakar, a fish seller in Kolkata's Gariahat market.
Sunil Singh, who sells at Gurgaon's Sikandarpur fish market, pegged the price of Kolkata-sourced fish at Rs 1,400-1,600 per kg.
Bengal's Bane
Overfishing, especially of juvenile hilsa, is rampant in the Bay of Bengal estuary. Traders pointed to a variety of woes.
Fishermen often ignore rules on net mesh size, catching young fish before they can breed. Brood fish or mature, breeding-age fish are also targeted. The lack of compliance and weak enforcement, along with poor design of fish passes at barrages, are steadily worsening the situation.
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Source: EconomicTimes
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