Inside the permit rooms that shaped Chennai’s nightlife

Inside the permit rooms that shaped Chennai’s nightlife

In the early 1970s, we drank at permit rooms. A Permit Room (as bars were known back in the day), was a licensed, designated area within or attached to a hotel or liquor shop, where patrons were permitted to consume liquor on-premises, legally carrying with them a ‘permit', issued by the authorities concerned.

The only watering holes, these Government-regulated bars were tucked inside a few hotels. And as the name suggests, patrons actually needed a Government-issued permit to order a drink.

Now, in a city sparkling with modern cocktail menus and trendy lounge bars, some of these bars remain unchanged, offering a quiet space for loyal regulars, with familiar menus and staff. Three of these are vegetarian, offering rasam vada and peanuts with your whiskies.

We visit four of the oldest hotels in Chennai to try their iconic bars.

Sometimes the universe aligns with human effort, altering destinies. Such was the story of Mariapillai, a landlord-farmer from Manachanallur in Tiruchi. His life took an extraordinary turn when he moved from being a labour contractor to becoming the owner of a tea estate — a gesture of trust from the British planters who recognised his integrity. His success set the stage for the next generation. In 1975, his son Rengaswamy Pillai purchased a one-acre plot on Cathedral Road and built a hotel there, naming it Hotel Maris in honour of his father.

“My grandfather had the privilege of booking the first room,” recalls Rengaswamy's son, Anand Rangaswamy, who now runs the establishment. “A few years later, in 1979, we opened our bar, then known as a permit room. My grandfather, a cognac connoisseur, inaugurated The Permit Room with the first drink, which was Honey Bee Brandy because, Cognac was a rarity in bars like ours those days. We retained the name but added ‘on Cathedral Road' for better identification.” The hotel, true to its heritage, continues to operate as a vegetarian property.

At The Permit Room in Hotel Maris | Photo Credit: Johan Sathyadas

The Permit Room is elegantly designed with an L-shaped layout that seats around 80 guests. Its straight-backed chairs and four-seater tables suit both hurried business meetings during the day and relaxed evening gatherings. Soft lighting and subdued instrumental music create a calm atmosphere, perfect for conversation — a quality appreciated by its regular clientele, many of whom are business travellers or neighbourhood patrons aged between 40 and 75.

The bar's snack menu is intentionally light, keeping the age group in mind: boiled groundnuts, sundal, murukku, cornflakes, and peanuts. The highlight, however, is the popular rasam vada, a favourite among guests. “We take pride in the range of liquor we stock and keep our pricing competitive,” says Anand. While draught beer is not served due to inconsistent supply, the bar offers a generous variety of spirits. Cocktails are minimal, but a Bloody Mary is always an option.

The bar's snack menu, especially its rasam vadai is popular among regulars | Photo Credit: Johan Sathyadas

A simple raise of the hand is all it takes for a waiter to refresh a drink — a small gesture that captures the warmth and understated charm of The Permit Room on Cathedral Road.

Our favourites: Yamazaki Single Malt whisky with rasam vada and onion pakoda

Hotel Palmgrove, in fact, predates Hotel Maris by a few years. The original Palmgrove was established in 1971 by its earlier promoters, but after a difficult start and a period of decline, it was almost forced to shut down. Its fortunes changed in 1973 when the Ballal Group of Mangalore took over and restored the hotel to stability and respectability.

The hotel's permit room, the Ramba Bar, opened in 1981. “Keeping with tradition, we've always chosen mythological names — Urvashi for the conference hall, Menaka for the restaurant, Indrasabha for the mini hall, and Ramba for the bar,” explains general manager B Sukeerthi Raja Ajri, who has been associated with the hotel since 1973.

A vintage car stationed outside Hotel Palmgrove | Photo Credit: Johan Sathyadas

Over the decades, while Palmgrove's restaurant and banquet services have enjoyed steady patronage, the Ramba Bar has had a tougher run. It remains a modest 35-seater with limited décor and a bar stock that is far from extensive. Yet, it has a quiet charm that keeps regulars coming back. Bartender T Murugesan, who has been with the hotel for eight years, says, “We have many regular customers — some stay at the hotel, others live nearby.”

One such regular, sitting alone with his drink, shared his reasons for returning: “I come for the silence, the calm, and the quick service. Many of us are from traditional families where drinking at home is taboo, so this place becomes our quiet corner.”

Ajri adds, “Most of our guests — whether at the hotel or the bar — are from the business community or the local neighbourhood.” Ramba Bar offers the popular whisky, brandy, vodka, and rum selections, along with a decent range of beer. The demand here is for practical IMFL favourites rather than exotic or high-end labels, though a Scotch is occasionally poured. The snacks are simple too — chips, peanuts, mixture — with vada and chutney being the signature item.

Fridays and Saturdays see the highest footfall, while Sundays tend to be slow. With four competing bars in the vicinity serving non-vegetarian dishes, Ramba Bar faces stiff competition. Yet its familiarity, ample parking, well-known faces, and unhurried atmosphere continue to draw middle-aged and older patrons who appreciate its quiet, steady presence.

Our favourites: Vat 69 (old world whisky in an old-world bar) with masala vada /chutney and peanut masala

Simply called The Bar, and marked only by a discreet glow sign above the hotel's main porch, the permit room at Madras Hotel Ashoka has been operating quietly yet steadily since 1982. The hotel came under the ownership of the Ballal Group of Mangalore after the previous promoters, LG Balakrishnan & Bros of Coimbatore, decided to exit the hospitality industry. Since then, the Ballal family has maintained the property with a sense of continuity and tradition.

Set within sprawling grounds in the heart of Egmore, Madras Hotel Ashoka is a vegetarian establishment that draws a large and loyal clientele. Business travellers form a significant portion of its patrons, many of whom are drawn to the hotel's tasty vegetarian fare and the sensibly priced offerings at The Bar.

Today, the hotel operates under the collective leadership of K Jayavermaraj Ballal, with day-to-day operations overseen by director Roshan Ballal. “As one of Chennai's oldest permit rooms, the charm of The Bar lies in its simplicity and continuity,” Roshan explains. “Many guests have been coming here for decades. They appreciate the familiar snacks, the understated décor, the calming ambience, and even the greenery and ample parking. These evoke an era when hospitality was simpler and more personal, giving them a peaceful space in a busy city.”

The Bar carries more than 50 varieties of liquor, and the snack menu is substantial, offering around 10 items. Among these, the rasam and sambar vadas remain particular favourites. The average guest is between 30 and 50 years old — mostly business travellers. Roshan adds that the hotel's open-air and banquet halls host events throughout the year, and attendees from these programmes often visit the bar before or after their functions.

A view of The Bar at Hotel Ashoka | Photo Credit: Johan Sathyadas

Two friends who meet here regularly chat about why they like visiting. “We always sit at our usual table at the far end,” one of them said. “It gives us the privacy we want.” Their preference is so well known that the bartender occasionally asks newcomers to shift seats so the regulars can occupy their familiar spot. “Most people oblige — they understand the comfort of a familiar table,” says Harinarayanan, barman.

Our favourites: Jim Beam with potato sticks and roasted groundnuts

In 1972, PV John from Kerala arrived in then–Madras city and entered the hospitality industry by establishing what came to be known as Hotel Ranjith. His son, PJ Eapen, the hotel's current managing director, had never planned on joining the business. But circumstances changed when he moved to Chennai to care for his ailing mother. With his father occupied with her treatment, Eapen gradually stepped in to manage the hotel and eventually became deeply involved in its operations.

As the hospitality landscape evolved and demand grew, the family expanded the business by opening a permit room — the now-iconic Crystal Bar. Eapen's son, John Eapen, who is taking on a larger role in the family enterprise, recalls, “We come from a conservative community that traditionally frowned upon involvement in the liquor business.”

Perhaps for this reason, when Crystal Bar was opened, it was housed in a standalone structure within the hotel premises. Over the years, it developed its own identity, becoming well known not only for its drinks but also for popular dishes such as Afghani chicken, crab cutlets, fish Malabar, and chicken rolls.

Cocktails at Hotel Ranjith | Photo Credit: Johan Sathyadas

Established in 1986, Crystal remains one of the finest among Chennai's older hotel bars. Its club-like seating — plush chairs, L-shaped sofas, and granite-topped tables — creates an intimate, relaxed setting. The lighting is soft and the music deliberately low. “Sometimes, when the bar is full, we turn the music off completely because guests prefer to focus on their conversations,” says John. Beloved for its old-world charm, Crystal has become a preferred gathering place for both older patrons and younger regulars seeking a nostalgic, unhurried ambience. “It's not just a bar. Its 40-year legacy is a testament to consistency and quality,” adds Eapen John. This is probably why Crystal Bar attracts the youth – senior college students and young professionals. Says one of the six in a group present, “We like to talk, exchange news, speak about music and enjoy the peaceful ambience of this old-world bar which allows us to do so, in contrast to some of the noisy pubs.”

Bartender Venkatesh, who has served at Hotel Ranjith for 25 years, observes that guests aged 40 and above tend to favour brandy, rum, and vodka. “We're also one of the best-stocked bars in the city,” he says. “Crystal offers a curated selection of premium imported spirits — single malts, bourbons, VSOPs, and even special liqueurs like absinthe. Occasionally, groups of college students stop by for a quick drink before heading to the restaurant,” says Venkatesh. The snacks remain simple, with the ever-popular chilli idli topping the list.

Our favourites: Chilli idli, crab cutlets and Madras Masti (whisky, ginger, mint, plum and pomegranate)

Published - February 04, 2026 01:51 pm IST

food and dining (general) / Chennai

Source: TheHindu
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