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Do You Trust Your Bartender To Decide What You Drink? Omakase Is Betting You Do
Do You Trust Your Bartender To Decide What You Drink? Omakase Is Betting You Do
The Delhi dining scene has always been a bit of a loud, celebratory braggart, and I say that with the utmost affection. We love the clatter of a busy brunch, the “more is more" philosophy of a multi-course feast.
But lately, the word on every mouth inside every clamourous bar is Omakase. Literally translating to “I leave it to you," Omakase used to be the preserve of hushed Tokyo sushi dens. But in the hands of Delhi’s modern maestros, it has evolved into a liquid dialogue and a high-stakes performance.
To understand this “Omakase-fication" of India, we went straight to the source: the visionaries behind the bars and counters where the “menu" is merely a suggestion, and the chef’s whim is law.
My journey began with Call Me Ten, where founders Karann R Chawla, Angadh Siingh, and Akshay Shokeen have pulled off a daring feat: applying the Omakase philosophy to the shaker and the glass.
“For us, Omakase is a conversation built on trust," they tell me. It’s a refreshing take. In a city where we often like to be in control, Call Me Ten asks us to let go. But it’s not a blind leap into the dark. They’ve pioneered a subtle, non-intrusive “palate reading" via a small Omakase card. You jot down your spirit of choice and your flavour inclinations, and the mixologist takes it from there.
“It’s about reading the guest – their pace, their comfort," the founders explain. “Whether someone leans toward bright, citrusy profiles or deeper, spirit-forward drinks, the progression evolves accordingly." It’s improvisation backed by rigorous discipline. At Call Me Ten, the foundation is a rock-solid bar programme drawing on Japanese techniques, but the execution is pure jazz. It’s an experience that stays consistent in quality but fluid in expression.
Moving into the historic (and upscale) heartbeat of the city, I caught up with Gurmehar Sethi at Tranzit in Khan Market. Even amidst the high energy and the “passport of flavour" menu, Gurmehar has carved out a dedicated Omakase Bar.
“Omakase is high-touch and low-volume," Gurmehar asserts, tackling the business logic head-on. “It doesn’t work by traditional volume-driven metrics. It works through precision and loyalty." In a market that usually demands scale, this is something new. Gurmehar believes that while the philosophy of Omakase can scale, the replication cannot. “The moment it becomes overly standardised, it loses its meaning. Each counter needs autonomy; otherwise, it’s just a tasting menu in disguise."
At Tranzit, the Omakase experience is about “judgement, sourcing, and restraint." It’s a bold move for a space that otherwise buzzes with “Route 66" Manhattans and “Bournvita-clarified" nostalgia. But that’s the point: Omakase offers a sanctuary of slow-dining within the whirlwind of the city. It’s not about exclusivity for the sake of a velvet rope; it’s about “responsiveness to the ingredient, the moment, and the guest."
Why now, you must be wondering, as I was when I began writing. Why is the Indian diner, historically known for being quite specific about their requirements, suddenly happy to say, “Surprise me"?
According to the team at She’s Here (the sophisticated sister brand to Call Me Ten), it’s a matter of global exposure meeting local talent. “Indian diners today are far more globally exposed," the founders note. “They’ve travelled, they’ve seen the world-class technique, and they realise the talent right here in India is now performing at that same global level."
At She’s Here, the Japanese aesthetic of restraint continues. The interiors are clean and cosy, creating an “exclusivity of experience." The rise of this trend isn’t just a social media fad (though the “theatre" of a drink being crafted tableside certainly doesn’t hurt the grid) it’s a deeper appreciation for craft. “Diners today are curious about what goes into their drinks. They appreciate the personality behind the creation," the founders add.
Every time I sit at a low-seated counter and watch a mixologist balance citrus against smoke with the precision of a surgeon, I realised that Omakase in India demands two things Indian diners are now freely giving: money and trust.
We are happy when someone else takes away the mental gymnastics of figuring out what to order, and let the chef whip up something new. Whether it’s the seasonal, locally-sourced ingredients being reinterpreted at Call Me Ten or the “rhythm of Delhi" being distilled into a glass at Tranzit, the rise of Omakase is clear. And if my own experiences are anything to go by, the appeal is only growing. Because once you experience a drink or dish created entirely in response to you, it becomes very difficult to go back to simply ordering off a menu.
Source: News18
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